Whale Watching In Maui
Experience Maui’s Humpback Whales
Why does Maui keep winning so many “best of” awards? It’s because of the amazing array of outdoor activities. From all the beaches to play on, ocean sports like SUP, surfing and all the wind powered toys, the amazing road to Hana and all the dive and snorkeling spots and boats, it’s no wonder people keep voting us as one of the best vacation destinations in the world!
I’ve lived on Maui for close to 20 years as a professional travel photographer, writer and teaching artist. When people ask me what’s the best time of year to visit, I usually say anytime is great but visiting during whale season is a special treat. The whale watching season runs from November thru May. For those who live here in Maui we look forward to the whale’s arrival just as much as the visitors who’ve traveled thousands of miles to get here. It’s not just a big animal or a cool ocean adventure to get out on a boat and see these whales. It’s just as much a spiritual experience to be in the presence of these amazing mammals and to see them up close!
It’s fascinating how these animals live their lives in such a gentle way and communicate with one another so beautifully! From breaching to tail slaps to fluke waves to babies and mothers, it’s always a memorably experience to see and hear them out on the ocean. One of my favorite whale behaviors to witness on a whale watching tour is called a spy hop. A whale will slowly rise straight up, nose first, until it’s eyes are above water. This enables the animal to look directly at the people on the boat. Their eyes are incredible and look very similar to a blue human eye – only their eyes are almost the size of a basketball! It is also a wonderful experience to see Maui from an offshore perspective. Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains are so beautiful with the green slopes from the winter rains rising out of the ocean!
Biologist are keeping a close eye on the population increases of the last decade and comparing it to food sources in the feeding grounds of Alaska. Humpbacks need a thick layer of fat to last the winter months in Maui where they do not feed. Scientist are finding that how soon or late the whales begin arriving may depend on how healthy the food supply (plankton) is during the summer months up north. 2017 should be a year of interesting whale research and you can help with the results!
For the last 20 years The Pacific Whale Foundation has hosted the Maui Whale Day Festival. It has steadily grown over the years to include a parade, live music and several other fun events. Entertainment has included international stars like Mick Fleetwood and Willie Nelson along with many talented local musicians like Willie K, Marty Dread, Anuhea and Henry Kapono, just to name a few. If you’re on the island in February this is an event worth checking out!
When I first moved to Maui in the early 1980’s I heard about Lahaina being an old whaling town. I assumed the history of whaling ships and crews arriving in Maui in the first half of the nineteenth century had something to do with the humpbacks arriving here too. It turns out that this is not the case at all.
The whaling ships actually came to hunt first along the coast of Chile and then into the sea of Japan. As more ships were built whaling expanded over a 40 year period into the arctic and the northwestern coastline of North America. Lahaina was the winter port of call for the American whaling fleet between 1819 and 1860. Whale oil is said to have been the main resource for the industrial revolution as it was used for lamps, heating homes and lubricating the newly invented machinery of the day.
Sea captains favored Lahaina as a winter haven to prepare for the long, arduous voyages across the Pacific in search of whales. The protected waters of Lahaina Roadstead were perfect for the offshore anchored whaling ships and the port was famed by the crews for it’s grog shops and lusty women. This in turn caused problems with the also newly arrived missionaries during the 1830’s. This resulted in clashes with the whaling captains and crew. One whaling ship even fired into the town of Lahaina after their captain was detained in the Prison Street jail. This resulted in the building of a coral and mortar fort with fixed guns. The remains of this fort can be seen today near the Lahaina Banyan and courthouse.
By the peak year of 1846 it was observed that 429 whaling ships came to call at Lahaina Roadstead. Although whaling ships also anchored and provisioned on Oahu, it is said the sailors much preferred the Irish potatoes grown in Kula to the yams of Oahu. It was a ruff and tumble town of drinking and merriment for sailors enjoying some R&R after the tremendous toil of whaling. Still to this day it is a town full of bars and restaurants.
Surprisingly there is very little evidence that ancient Hawaiians had a relationship with these huge mammals. Aside from a few petroglyphs there is hardly any mention of them in Hawaii’s oral history of chants and legends.
Some theorize that they did not show up until just a few centuries ago, or that they were considered so sacred that information about them was only shared within the priests and Ali’i (royalty) circles of the society. Ivory teeth and bones were known to have washed ashore and there are artifacts like the whale tooth lei called Lei Niho Palaoa which was a very powerful symbol of status.
One thing for sure though is that the whaling captains recruitment of Hawaiians as able seamen exposed the culture to the world. Many european seaman deserted in Hawaii and as a result the Hawaiians were prized recruits as whalers for their knowledge and skills of ocean travel. Subsequently the stories of paradise in Hawai’i were spread through the Americas and Europe.
Peak whale watching in Maui begins in December and ends in March which happens to coincide (not by accident) with the peak visitor time. That can mean top prices for flights and lodging. Book well in advance to get the best deals. Whale watching tours on larger boats like those offered on the Pride of Maui, operated out of Ma`alaea Harbor, offer a great view from a large upper deck in this prime Humpback whale breeding ground. These tours guarantee plenty of whale sightings on this side of the island between Dec 15th and April 1st.
You will see whales from shore all around Maui. Keep in mind though that they will look like tiny black dots or splashes in the far distance. Surprisingly this does not detract from the experience because Maui’s shorelines are amazing even without whales off shore! Here are a few of the best places to see whales from shore…